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A POCKET MANUAL 



Practical Mechanic 



The Csrrirge Mrker's Guide, 



J. B. HAMPTON 

A Practical Mechanic. 



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^ DEC 6 1886 



INDIANAPOLIS: 
Frank H. Smith, Printer, 



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Copyrighted, 1886, by J. B. Hampton. 



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PREFACE. 



TffHIS little work is designed as a pocket manual for the 
•*• mechanic, to aid him in his laudable labors. Only such 
rules or methods are herein shown as are known, from 
practical tests and daily application, to meet the wants of 
the workman, enabling him to accomplish more in a given 
time and with less labor. 

Many years of my life have been spent at the bench, 
during which time I have endeavored to perfect myself as a 
mechanic, treasuring up all that experience has taught, and 
what could be learned from others. 

For years I have been contriving to complete a new 
and simple rule that would teach the craft a shorter and 
much needed way to work, so that more work might be 
done in a day than heretofore, thus bringing more wages 
and satisfaction to the mechanic. 

I have met persons who, for years, had tried to learn 
the French rule for drafting, but gave it up in despair. It 
was too long and too hard to learn. The French rule is 
more adapted to architecture and is highly useful, more so 
than many mechanics can comprehend. 

The architect may draw a very tine outline of a house 
with all its angles, bevels, and curves ; but the cuts he 
leaves for the mechanic to work out, and he generally uses 
the "try, cut, and fit" rule. In many cases, the architect 
that draws the plan cannot Ijuild the house, nor draw the 



— 4— 

bevel cuts, nor make the sweeps for a segmen't of a sweep. 
An architect asked me once to call and spend an evening at 
his ofhce. He desired to ask me many questions about my 
short mode of working the bevel, for, as for him, he 
acknowledged that he "never did understand that miserable 
bevel rule." He asked me all the hard and most difficult 
questions that he could think of, and just such ones that 
the best architects had failed to understand. It appeared 
to him that my answers were so simple and easy of com- 
prehension, that he remarked : " Are you sure that your 
rules will work in practice?" "I told him that they would, 
for I used them every day when I did work that required 
the bevel rule. He said he had no reason to doubt my 
word, and now he would acknowledge that he had obtained 
more practical knowledge during the evening than he had 
acquired in attending the Drafting School, at a cost of $60. 

i believe that there is a great mistake made in teaching 
drafting by persons who are not practical workmen. It was 
a true statement that Mr. Studebaker, the eminent wagon 
manufacturer of South Bend, Ind., made in his speech 
before the Carriage Makers' National Union, a few years 
ago, when the subject of the Technical School was before 
that body for discussion. He said that no young man could 
become a practical draftsman unless he worked out and put 
into shape the draft that he could draw. The statement is 
true, and the principle should be practiced b'y every student 
in mechanics. 

Mr, B. C. Shaw, of Racine, Wisconsin, one of the 
leading carriage builders of the West, and a very prominent 
member of the Carriage Makers' National Union, often 
remarked: "When you make a carriage draft, take the 
wagon all out of it, for a carriage and a wagon are two 



-5- 

different vehicles, and should be built very differently; and 
to mix, in structure, those two vehicles is something in 
similarity to a mule." 

It is not an easy job to draft and build a first-class 
carriage, handsome and proportional in all its parts, as well 
as comfortable to its occupants. There are some very large 
factories in this country that do good work for the prices 
they ask, but it mostly looks stiff and "wagonish." There 
is lack of ease and grace as these carriages move along the 
street or highway. Something should be taken off here, 
and a little added on here and there, which would make the 
cost no greater. The chief need in such factories is a good 
mechanic and draftsman at the head of the institution. 

J. B. Hampton. 

Indianapolis, Ind., August, 1886. 




-7— 




B 



Fig. 1. 

A Practical Work Bepcb. 

EFORE a mechanic begins work in a cania-e factory, 
he should have his Bench well fitted up, perfectly level, 



and with a goo( 



ana wun . ...^- bench-hook, one that can be qn.ckly 
placed in position and made to ^vork easily A p.ece ot 
three-inch timber, seven inches wide, should be bolted on 
,he under side of the bench, projecting ^^ven ttich s 
Block it up even with the top of the bench, and bolt the 
vise on it square and level v ith the bench. 

A bench fitted up in this way, with the vise projecfng 
seven inches, makes it more convenient to make seats and 

''" r„, from one to three drawers under the bench, one 
,0 have a lock on it for the safe keeping of choice tools and 
other things not for every one's use or tnspecfon. Be su e 
.„ place the key at some convenient place, of easy access to 
yotlrself and other workmen in the shop. A work bench 
for the carriage mechanic, constructed on this plan, .5, I 
think, complete. 



8— 




Fig. 2. 

The Trestle. 

n?HIS cut represents a shapely Trestle. It is fifty-two 
**• inches long, twenty-six inches wide, and twenty-eight 
inches high. The top is made of two thicknesses of J/^ inch 
lumber, fastened together with screws, the heads of which 
should be plugged, to prevent the dulling of tools. 

Cut three square holes in the top, making the center 
one ?>\^ inches, and each of the other two 6x6 inches. 
Brace the legs on the inside, as represented in the cut, so 
that the braces may be out of the w^ay of hand-screws when 
clamping your work on the trestle. Project the top two 
and a half inches all around, to give room for clamping. 
Bolt irons on the outside of the legs, so that the trestle may 
be made fast to the floor with screws. Place it about four 
feet four inches from the w^ork-bench, the front end about 
eighteen inches back of the vise. 

This kind of trestle is the most convenient I have ever 
seen or used ; a body can be clamped on it in any position 
desired. Mechanics who once become familiar with its 
many advantages over the old trestle, will never dispense 
with its use. 



Pig. 3. 

The Draft Board. 

TITHE above cut outlines a Draft Board with a base and 
i top line, the base being about one-eighth of an inch 
from the lower edge, which must be straight, as the bevel 
and the square are used against it. The top line can be 
adapted to the length of your bevel and square. Every 
bevel line, as given in this book, runs from the base line, 
which is parallel with the lower edge of the draft board and 
nearly always from a given point; this is to enable the 
workman to apply the bevel more quickly and with exact- 
ness, thus lessening labor and saving time. 



^g^ 


HHH 


1 





^11— 



How to Draw a Working Draft. 

NEVER draw more lines than are to be used in working 
for they frequently lead the bodymaker into error, and 
delay his work. Everything must be simple, and every l.ne 
drawn should appear easy and graceful to the eye Give 
every curved line a graceful and easy turn, and make every 
bevel line just enough bevel to look well. To accomplish 
this work requires practice, and a great deal of it. Some 
people are natural draftsmen, and can succeed without 
much trouble ; others can never learn. 

The cut shown represents two different things ; to draw 
the draft and to draw one longer or shorter than the original, 
having the same proportion as the one already drawn 
Draw three parallel lines lengthwise on the draft-board 
twelVe inches apart. The middle line to be the base line. 
Draw lines perpendicular to the lower edge of the draft- 
board to intersect every angle, as represented in the cut 
This body is six feet and six inches long over all. In this 
draft the distance from one angle to another can be readily 
seen by the figures in the draft. The rod that is placed 
across the lines is used to lengthen or shorten the draft, and 
to keep it in the same proportion. When a draft is to be 
. made shorter, lay the rod No. i parallel with the base 
^ line, mark across this rod at every angle hne of the 
body; then place the rod beveling across the draft until 
the desired length is acquired, as represented by rod 2. Now 
draw lines across the marks on the rod which will make 
the draft shorter and in the same proportion. To lengthen 
the draft, lay the rod across angling /r^A mark the lines, 
and then place the rod on the base line, which adds to the 
length of each part. 

This draft represents the sills leaning out; lines E F 
! and B G represent the sills and width of the body as leaning 



— T2— 

out. The lower line of the draft should be the edge of the 
draft-board. The rods I and 2 with the lines drawn scross 
them, form no part of the working draft ; they are merely 
given to illustrate the drawing and to show how a draft can 
be made longer or shorter. 

In a working draft I never draw half width, for it is not 
so easy and quick a way to work by a half width as by a 
whole width; for in all cross rails they can be applied on 
the width of the draft at once, and get the length, thus 
dispensing with the middle line and reversing the rail; all 
of which takes time, and time is a mechanic's capital which 
should be put to more profitable use. 

Every workman that draws his own draft must have 
something to draw from, both length and width. People 
are not of the same size, so different carriages must be built 
to suit and fit such persons. Statistics tell us that the people 
of Indiana and Ohio measure two inches taller than the 
people of the New England States, and that the people of 
Iowa are one inch taller than those of Indiana. 

I have found that bodies manufactured in the East have 
seats ten and a half inches high, while the Westerner builds 
them twelve and thirteen inches high, and then a full grown 
Hoosier six feet or six feet four inches says they are too low. 
This is something that should be looked after. The front 
seat of a four passenger carriage should be higher than the 
back one, for the ladies, generally, ride on the back seat, 
and do not require so high a seat. 

I have often received orders to build a four passenger 
carriage for a small family, the gentleman being about five 
feet five inches, and the lady still smaller, while the children 
were about the same height, — all parts proportioned just to 
suit, so as to be neat and comfortable. In filling such an 
order I take my draft as the general size of a carriage, and 
shorten it by means of the rods as represented in the cut. 




—13— 

To Get the Length and Bevel of 
Shoulder of Cross Rails. 

This figure represents the same 
draft, but is given in order to 
easily and clearly explain my 
method of framing the cross rails. 
In getting the length and bevel 
of the shoulders of the toe rail, 
draw lines E F and G H, from 
the upper and lower edges of the 
toe rail parallel to the base line 
O X, across A B and C D, as rep- 
resented ; then draw I L from 
point I, the intersecting point of 
A B and E F, perpendicular to 
line O X. With the compass ob- 
tain the distancefrom M to N on 
G H ; place one point on L, the 
intersecting line I L and O X, 
which will reach to P. With the 
compass get width of toe rail, 
place one point on point L which 
will reach to point V. Draw 
P V, which is the bevel across 
the toe rail for the shoulder, and 
also across the toe of the side sills 
where the toe rail laps on the side 
sill; then on line E F between 
A B and C D is the length of 
the rail between the shoulders on 
the long side, or top edge. Lay 



-.4- J 

the toe rail on this line and mark it at points R and F : 
that will be the long corner from which to bevel. 

In completing this explanation, I would here say that 
my reason for giving this additional draft (2), is this: I have' 
been so often asked how to obtain the length and bevel of 
the toe rail and all other cross rails; for I nearly always | 
frame the toe rail and all other cross rails first, to get them r 
out of the way, ' 

I have often seen the very best of workmen in good j 
shops, where they were building bodies with flared sills, 
who would set the sills up after beveling by clamping strips ; 
across to hold them in the right position, so that they could \ 
lay the toe rail and other rails across to get the length and I 
bevel; for they knew no other way to obtain them. j 

(I did not finish this draft, that is, I did not draw the ! 
upper part of the back and did not intend to do so. J 
intended only to draw so much as would show how to draw;- 
one and to draw one longer or shorter, and to get the length v 
of the toe and other cross rails, which I hope will be easil} 
understood.) 




A Short and Easy Way to Make 
a Segment of a Curve. 

Take a piece of lumber 
as long as the segment is re- 
quired to be, as represented 
in the cut by E, F, G, H. 
Straighten one edge and guage 
from that edge the amount of 
curve desired, that from L to 
M, say two inches and drive a 
nail at I, J and L. Take 
another piece of lumber the 
width of the curve wanted, 
two inches, tapering it from 
the middle to one end. Place 
the middle, where the taper 
commences, against the nail 
J, as represented in the cut. 
Hold the pencil firmly at that 
point (J) and move the ta- 
pered piece along holding 
it firmly against the nails, 
from point J to point L, and 
then from L to I in the same 
way, which will lay off a per- 
fect segment, with a curve of 
two inches from one end to 
the other. 




Tie. 7. (i 



(3) 



(4) 



—17— 

How to get the Bevel of Flared Sills; and 
to Saw Out with a Band Saw. 

TT is a well established fact in the bevel rule, that all 

■*■ horizontal lines are beveled just the distance which the 

"^ill leans out. If the sill of a buggy leans out two inches in 

Ttwelve inches, the bevel square must be set to that bevel. 

iiThis will fit to all horizontal lines on the sill. 

In figure (i), where the seat rests, is beveled from A to 
the back end of the sill ; the same bevel will fit on the bot- 
tom in front, they being horizontal lines. All other lines 
running up or down from that line are beveled differently, 
just in proportion to the position they run. 

All horizontal lines are base lines; other lines are called 
oblique lines, except line A which is made with the square 
perpendicular to the base line, or square across the beveled 
part of the sill. This line is called a plumb line, or second 
l^ase line. These two lines govern the bevel in all of its 
qhanges. Be particularly careful to keep these two lines in 
i^nind ; if you do not you will soon be lost; better quit and 
take a rest, for it is like a man being lost in the woods, — • 
le does not know the road when he finds it. 

Laying off a sill to be shaved out by hand is a very fine 
3oint, and must be done very accurately. Place the pattern 
l)n sill as represented in figure (3), mark all around it as 
ndicated by the dotted lines; bevel the base line exactly 
o the line laid off by the pattern, as in figure (i). 

At A, (i) where the dotted lines intersect each other, 
:^uare across the bevel part of the sill on top edge with the 
quare as represented at A. Change the pattern over on 
he other side of the sill, and be careful to keep the point 



— 18— 

of the pattern even with this perpendicular or second base 
line, also even with the bevel part of the sill, as represented 
in figure (2), and mark all around it as before, except where 
it has been already dressed off. 

The sill being now laid off shave it out exactly with the 
lines on both sides, and it wall be beveled just right in all 
parts. V 

To Saw^ Out with a Band Saw. 

In figure (4) A B C D are four wedges bradded on the 
inside of the sill. The wedges are made tapering to repre- 
sent the leaning out of the sills,-say two inches to the foot,- 
with the big end even with the top of the sill as represented 
in the figure. Lay off the other side with the pattern as 
indicated by dotted lines in figure (3). The wedges hold 
the sill in position on the saw table. Saw exactly to the 
scribe as near as possible, with band saw. This n)akes 
every bevel correct, and is very quickly done. 



-19- 




Fig. 8. 



To Find a Segment of a Circle to a Given 

Segment on Any Bevel, as for instance, 

A Swell Back Seat. 

DRAW the base line C D and bevel lines F A and C B 
parallel to each other. The distance between them must 
be equal to the amount of curve in the back panel; then 

Iraw F E from point F, at right angles to F A and C B. 

f E is the curve of the back panel, C F is the curve of the 

rame, and C E is the curve on the lower edge of the back 
Lnel. Make sweeps by propositions O, (see segment of 
Circle, figure 6, page 15,) and they will exactly fit, so that 

he margin on the frame will project equal distances at 

^TOth ends of the seat. 




Fig. 9. (2) 



The Use of the Tran?. 

TITHE Tram is an instrument made use of to draw the 
** segment of a circle. It consists of a staff, two arms, and 
two braces, with a sliding block on the staff. A set screw 
is in the block to fasten it at any desired place to suit the 
segment. It opens and shuts similar to an umbrella. 

Figure (2) is the tram in position to lay off a segment, 
having a nail driven at the points A and C, which represent 
the length of the curve ; put the arms of the tram against 
the nails with point B as far from edge of the board as you 
want the depth of the curve, — say two inches, — ^and is 
twenty-four inches from A to C. Place the pencil at B, 
move the tram from A to C, holding pencil at point 
B on tram, keeping the arms of tram against the 
nails while moving from A to C, as represented in the figure. 
This gives a segment of a circle without a centre, and 
using a radius, it is much quicker, for the tram is always 
ready to be placed in any position. It is very useful inlay- 
ing off patterns for stick and other seats. 



i 




iJ'ig 10. 

Rule for Getting the Bevels, Corner Block, and Miter 

of a Buggy Seat where the Back Flares 

Greater than the Side. 

T\RAW base and top lines, as represented in the cut; draw 
^ the perpendicular lines H F and G E; also C D for flare 
of side of seat and A B for flare of back. With the compass 
take length of A B, the greater flare; place point of com- 
pass on H to F ; Draw C F, then with the compass, length 
of C D, placing point of compass on G to E, draw A E ; 
then C F is the bevel for the end of back panel, and A E is 
the bevel for the end panel. This finishes the draft for 
the corners of the seat. 

To get the bevel of a block to fit in the corners. Place 
point of compass on C to H ; measure from A, on A E ik 
distance equal to C H which is A I. Draw perpendicular- 
line J K, through point I. Draw line A K, which is thf; 
bevel for the corner block. * , 



—23— 

In like manner, with the compass take A G. Place the 
point of compass on C to N on line C F ; draw perpendicular 
line, O P, and bevel line, C P, C P is also the bevel for the 
corner block. It makes just the same on either figure. 

For the Miter, place the point of compass on A to K, 
and the same distance from K to L on top line, then K L 
is equal to A K. Draw L A, which is then the miter line. 

Always keep the bevel parallel with the bevel end of 
the panel and never on the edge. 



-24- 




Fig. 12. 



Bevel Rule for Hopper Gorner Block and Mitre. 



"TkRAW lines A B and C D parallel to each other. Draw 
^ the bevel line E F, the flare of the hopper. Draw the 
perpendicular line G F, and intersect E F at F on C D. 
With the compass take the distance from G to F, placing 
point of compass on E, which will reach to L on E F. 
Draw I O through L ; then draw E O, which is the bevel 
of the end of the panel, which, when put together in the 
hopper, will flare the same as line E F and fit at the corner. 

For the corner block place the point of the compass on E, 
distance take from E toG, leave point on E, place the other 
point on E O which will reach to M. Draw the perpendicular 
line, K H through M, then draw E H; then E H is the bevel 
for corner block. 

For the miter place the point of the compass on points E 
and H, measure the same distance on C D from H, which gives 
N, then draw N E, w^hich is the miter. When you cut the 
miter, always place the bevel on the end of the panel at right 



—25- 

aPngles with the bevel end, and never on the edge of the 
panel. See cut No. 2 of figure 11 (page .) 

For a stick'seat, E H is the bevel for the corner pillar 
and E E is for the shoulder, that is, when the seat flares E F. 

In drawing the draft always draw the base line A B 
about one-eight of an inch from the lower edge of the draft 
board — as represented in the draft board — so that the 
point E will be off the edge of the draft board. This 
makes it easy to set the points of the compass. 




Fig. 13, 

How to Gurf a Board to Make a Bircle. 

"TkRAW a circle as represented in Fig. 9, showing the 
'*-' thickness of lumber used. Take a piece of the same 
thickness, D B, curf on the side at A. Place curf at the 
center of the circle at A, fasten the end with screws or 
nails firmly to the draft-board, move the outer end toward 
C until the curf is closed. Be careful not to bend the 
piece ; mark the distance on inside circle. The distance it 
moves, B C, gives the space between the curfs. 



-26- 




Fig. 14 



How to get the Lengtl] and Bevel of Knees of a Sleigli 
where they are of a Different Flare. 

THRAW base and top line, the latter to represent the top 

of bench, the former the bottom of the runner. Draw 

perpendicular line F B. Draw E C, representing the 

leaning in of the knees, and A C the leaning forward of 



-17- 

the back knee, which leans in the same as E C; but E C 
stands straight the other way; therefore E C is the bevel 
for the shoulder and mortise of the upper end of the 
middle knee. But A C is different because it leans two ways. 
With the compass get the length of E C, place the point of 
uie compass at the intersection of A E and F B, at point F, 
which reaches to D; draw A D which will be the length 
of the back knee. With the compass take the length of 
A C, place point of compass on F B at F, which reaches to 
B. Ihaw B E which is the bevel of the shoulder of the 
back knee and mortise through the bench. In the same 
manner with the front knee. If it does not lean back as 
much as the back knee does forward, draw another draft 
in the same manner. 

In getting the bevel of the front and back knee, get 
length of F E with compass. Put the point of compass on 
point A, the other point will reach to O on A D. Draw 
perpendicular line H G through O. Draw A G which is the 
bevel for the back and front knees, the same as a corner 
block in a seat, if both lean the same. 



28— 




i'ig. 15. 

A Simple Rule to Find the Place for the Joints 
in Prop Irons on Buggy Top. 

jnilE object of this is to fold them just right when the top 
'*• is let down. In the above engraving, A B C D repre- 
sent the prop irons, A is where the bows are fastened and 
turn when the top is lowered or raised, it being the centre. 
B C is where the back joint is fastened to hold the top up 
in position. In this iron a joint must be put in to let the 
top down. This joint must be put in between B and C, so 
that it will close up when the top is let down. To find 
this exact point has been a great deal of trouble to many 



— 29— 

good carriage makers; also the point in the joint, between 
C and D. This cut represents a top finished ready for the 
joints. 

Take a small twine string, hold one end at A, bring it 
around C, around B, and back to A ; get the exact distance 
around the three points as represented by the dotted lines. 
Then double the string, loop it over point A, bring it up 
over C, down in the direction of B; keep the ends even, 
and they v^^ill reach to F, that being the exact point for the 
centre of rivet in the joint. This is represented by two 
dotted lines. 

In the same way get the exact measurement around the 
three points, A C D, double the string, loop it over A, up 
over C toward D to E, — this being the exact point for the 
other joint. (See by dotted lines, as before). 

By this rule the joints will fold as close together as the 
bow will let them, and stick straight back out of the way, 
looking much better. I have seen many joints stand in a 
very awkward position when the top was let down. Such 
things should be guarded against. Often they are built in 
large shops were better mechanical skill should have been 
displayed. 




A Short Way to Lay Off an Eiglit Square. 

T,ET A B and C D represent the two sides of a four 
■*-* square piece of timber, less than seven inches wide, — 
say five and a quarter inches wide. Lay rule, E, across the 
face on an angle so as to make it seven inches wide. Mark 
at H, which is two inches (on the rule) from line A B, and 
at G, which is two inches from line C D. Set the gauge to 
either of these marks, gauging all around on four sides, 
and cut the corner off to the gauge marks. This will make 
the piece of timber exactly eight-square. 

If the timber is just seven inches square, gauge it two 
inches from the edge. This rule works only to seven inches. 

Figure 2 is wider than seven inches, but, as in the 
first cut above (i), lay the twenty-four inch rule across 
the face, and mark at seven and seventeen inches on the 
rule which will bring the same result. This is a very 
quick and convenient method to lay off an eight square. 



—31- 




Fig. 17. 



To Divide a Space into Equal Parts Without 

using Fractions of an Inch. 

• 

TITHE figure above represents a board fourteen inches 
'*' wide. You wish to divide it into four equal parts. I>ay 
the rule, A, angling across the board so as to measure six- 
teen inches, then mark opposite each four inches on the 
rule. To get exact width of each part, measure on a line 
drawn at right angles with the edge of the board, as C A. 

If you wish to divide the same space into three or five 
equal parts, place the rule at an angle that measures fifteen 
inches, then mark opposite each three and five inches 
respectively. 

This method will be found very convenient in drafting 
stick seats, etc. By its use a space may be divided into 
as many equal parts as desired, without using fractions of an 
inch. By employing this rule a space five and one-fourth 
inches wide may be divided into six equal parts as easily as 
though it were six inches wide. 



-32- 



■ 



Fig. 18. 

To Find the Bircumference of a Eircle. 

T\RAW a right-angle triangle, ABC, with the base line, 
^"^ A B, forty-four inches long, and the perpendicular line, 
A C, fourteen inches long. Forty-four inches is the cir- 
cumference of a circle which has a diameter of fourteen 
inches. The line A B is the circumference of the diameter 
A C. Now, any line drawn from A B to C B, perpendicu- 
lar to A B, anywhere from A to B, is a diameter; and from 
where it intersects A B, the base line, like E D, then E D 
is the diameter, and D B is the circumference ; also F B is 
the circumference of F G. 

Place the square anywhere on the base line A B, and 
the distance from the base to the hypotenuse is the diam- 
eter, and from the angle of the square to B is the circum- 
ference. 

When very large circles are wanted to be measured, 
use the same draft by employing inches iox feet. 

This is a correct and useful rule. 



—33— 




Fig. 19. 



To Obtain the Size of a Ghimney or Stack. 



This method will apply where the flues or pipes are of 
cliff"erent sizes. It will also obtain, with exactness and but 
little drafting, the size of the chimney or stack where the 
flues are all of the same size. For example take two boilers 
with twenty filues each, thus making forty flues, the diameter 
of each being four inches. Draw the right angle triangle, 
ABC, with right angle at A, the base and altitude to equal 
the diameter of the flues (four inches) ; then C B is equal to 
the sum of A B and A C. Draw B C to equal B A with 
right angle at B. Draw D C, which is equal to the sum of 
D B, B A and A C. Extend D to E with right angle at D. 
Draw E C ; then E F, with right angle at E ; now draw the 
line F C which makes the diameter — equal to the sum of the 
diameters of the five pipes whose diameters are four inches 
each. Now draw F to G, which will equal F C, — with 
right angle at F. Extend G to C which will equal the 
diameters of ten pipes whose diameters are fonr inches, 
Since G C is equal to ten flues, if another line, be drawn at 
right angles at G, equal to G C, the hypotenuse thus formed 
will equal the diameters of 20 flues. Proceed thus till all 
the flues in_the boiler are represented, 



—34— 




Fig. 20. 

To find the Diameter of a Large Pipe which 
shall be equal in area to any num- 
ber of smaller pipes. 



TITHE square described on the hypotenuse of a right 
-*■ angle triangle is equivalent to the sum of the squares de- 
scribed on the other two sides; and the area of a circle 
having the hypotenuse for the diameter is equivalent to two 
circles having for their diameters the other two sides;. 

Now, in figure 6, let the triangle, A B C be a right 
angle at A. Then A B is equal to the diameter of circle i: 
A C to diameter of circle 2; and B C, the hypotenuse, is 
equal to the diameter of circle 3 ; for the square of the 
hypotenuse is equal to the sum of the squares of the base 
and perpendicular A C. Draw line C D, at right angle at C, 
equal to the diameter of circle 4, then draw hypotenuse D 
B, which is equal to diameter of circle 5. Then the area 
of circle 5 is equal to the area of i, 2, and 4, In like 
manner, draw line D E, right angle at D; draw line E B; 



fo E B is equivalent to nil the other 4 sides. Continue the 
draft in this manner for as many pipes as may be required. 
This rule is very useful in getting the size of a smoke 
stack where a boiler has a number of flues. It is obtained 
by drafting an 1 not by figures. In building a house where 
a number of pipes tiischarge the smoke into one flue, the area 
o. the flue must be as large as the areas of all the flues that 
discharge into it, or it will smoke. In ditching a farm 
where two or more tiles discharge into one, the latter must 
be large eno igh to carry the vndcrway, or else trouble will 
set in, and Llie farmer cannot conceive what is the matter. 




Fig. 21. 



To Splice Timber. 



TITO splice a piece of broken timber without adding any 
•*■ timber to it or making it any shorter: Take piece of 
timber A, which is broken, saw out a piece, as represented, 
twice as long on one side of the break as on the other. 
Reverse the piece and fasten it back solid. The break is 
spliced without adding more timber or making it any 
shorter, as represented at B. 



■36- 




Fig. 22. 

How to Gut Lumber Without Waste. 

TITHE outline represents a space to be lilled. Put in 
-*- board 6 first, which is six inches wide — a narrow 
board ; a nine inch board next. You now have a space twelve 
inches wide to fill, and have no twelve inch lumber, but 
have a thirteen inch board. Do not cut off that one inch, 
but take a wide board, eighteen inches or over, and cut off 
twelve inches to fill the space, and you have six inches or 
more left ; when if you had cut off only one inch, that 
would have been thrown away. Always use the narrow 
pieces first, and never cut off. a piece too narrow to use... 

The old saying is, "One dollar saved is worth two dol- 
lars earned." A carpenter can build a house in the same 
manner. He should never cut off moulding too short to be 
used; never leave short pieces to go in short places, there 
is just as much loss in a short piece as in a long one. When 
your house is built, there are but few scraps left. Small 
savings, properly cared for, will, in time, make a handsome 
income. 




Fig. Ji3. 



The Rule of 6, 8 aqd 10 



*n right angle triangle is a figure that the square of the . 
/^ base and the square of the perpendicular added together 
are equal to the square of the hypotenuse 

For instance, take ABC, which is 6, 8 and lo, as re- 
presented in the figure: 

8X8=64, square of base. 

6X6=36, square of perpendicular. 

100, square hy^iotenuse. 

Then the square root of 100 is io=the hypotenuse. 
If the square of the hypotenuse is 100 which is equal to 
the squares of the base and perpendicular added together. 

These are probably the only numbers that will come out 
even, — without a fraction. For this reason they have been 
generally adopted by mechanics for squaring buildings, and is 
called the rule of 6, 8 and 10. 




Fig. 24. 



A Moulding Machine. 



'n is a block about ten inches long, five inches wide, and 
/■* two inches thick. A groove is cut in the middle, one and 
three fourths inches wide and three-sixteenths deep. This 
can be narrower or deeper as required. B and C are two 
grooves cut through the block one-fourth inch wide and 
about one inch deep, beveling to suit the beveling of the 
moulding. After the moulding is run through and brought 
down to the required thickness, it is then run through the 
bevel grooves under the knife and beveled on the edges. 
If a narrower one is wanted, put a strip underneath in the 
groove to raise the moulding up to the knife. The strip 
underneath the moulding should be beveled to fit the bevel 
of the moulding. D is a knife two and a half inches wide 
and as long as the block is wide. It is screwed down on 



-39— 

the block on the outside of the groove. E F G are three 
wooden springs with the point close to the edge of the 
knife to keep the moulding down, when cross-grained, so 
that it may be cut without splitting ofif. The two outside 
springs, E and G, hold the moulding while beveling 
the edges ; and F is to hold the moulding when it is run 
through flat-ways. H is a frame on front part of the machine 
to hold the springs. I I, represent two long slim wedges, 
which extend under the knife to raise or lower it to suit the 
thickness of the molding. J is a piece of moulding run- 
flatways through the machine. 

Mouldings can be made very quickly and cheap by 
sawing strips off" the edge of lumber. Be careful to have 
it as straight grained as possible. It is much cheaper than 
to have the lumber dressed down at the mill to the right 
thickness. 



-40- 




i''ig 2o. 



Easy Way to Erind Tools. 



TITURN the stone down until it^is perfectly round, and the 
'*' face level, and square with the side. A, represents the 
bench ; B, the stone ; C, a block two inches thick by two and 
a half inches wide, screwed fast to the bench, beveled on 
the side next to the stone just to suit the bevel of the tool. 
X, is a wedge. When more bevel is wanted, loosen the 
screw E, as represented in the cut, and drive wedge X 
in farther. This will incline, the block toward the stone 
and give more bevel. D, is a tool placed on the bevel 
of the block. With one hand press the tool firmly against 
the stone and turn the stone from you with the other. 
In this way the tools are quickly and easily ground, and 
always with the same bevel. 



3477-103 
Xot 21 






0^ 




